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Un Guide des Ecrins -
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Refuge Adèle Planchard -
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Casse Déserte -
Casse Déserte -
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Brèche de la Meije -
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Brèche de la Meije -
Refuge du Promontoire -
Serret du Savon
Tour de la Meije
Programm
Day 1 : D+: 1500m
From the Villar d’Arêne parking lot, we follow the Romanche upstream to its source, then continue uphill to enjoy the respite offered by the Adèle Planchard refuge at 3170m. The guards may change, but the quality of the welcome remains: it’s always fantastic.
Day 2: D+: 750m, D-: 1650m.
At sunrise, we regretfully leave the refuge and climb to the Grande Ruine 3675m “the most beautiful panorama in the Écrins, if not the world”, according to Gaston Rébuffat (an alpinist from Marseilles famous for his sense of proportion). A short descent takes us to the Col des Neiges, and we immediately climb back up to the Col de la Casse Déserte 3483m via a snowy couloir requiring crampons.
The descent to the Chatelleret refuge meets all the criteria for a “Grande Classe” itinerary: a short abseil to gain a foothold on the Grande Ruine glacier, brief proximity to seracs, a first section in cold snow, then a long descent in the sunshine on soft, transformed snow. Climb back up and spend the night at the Promontoire hut.
Day 3 D+1300m D- 200m
If sliding isn’t the main feature of this day, mountaineering will be. Passing the Brèche de la Meije, skiing on the eponymous glacier on the big north face, climbing the Serret du Savon couloir, and spending the night at the Aigle refuge are sure to leave a lasting impression.
Day 4 D+450m D-2100m
This is the apotheosis: we climb Meije Orientale 3891m, the last and most accessible summit in the Meije ridge chain. From the rimaye, where we left our skis, we glide down the glacier de l’Homme to the parking lot 2000m below. Great atmosphere on the north face of Pic Gaspard.
Equipment
– Sunglasses and ski mask.
– Hat, buff and cap. Helmet (1).
– Fleece jacket.
– Gore tex windbreaker.
– small down jacket
– Spare shirt or undershirt. Spare underwear.
– Thin gloves and warm gloves.
– Ski pants or gore tex pants. Tights (optional, but good for evenings).
– Harness (1), screw carabiner (1).
– Classic ice axe (1). Crampons with boot protectors adjusted to your boots (1).
– Ski touring boots (1).
– Touring skis + sealskins + ski crampons (1).
– Ski poles (1).
– Spare socks.
– Backpack 35 L minimum.
– Water bottle or thermos flask (minimum 1.5 L), knife, headlamp. Camera. Small first-aid kit adapted to your personal needs, including Elastoplast and Compeed for any blisters. Sunscreen and lip balm.
– Sheet-bag and toiletries (no shower in refuge).
– Identity papers, insurance policy, Club Alpin card if necessary.
– Safety equipment: avalanche transceiver, shovel, probe (1).
(1) Can be rented on site.